Would be nice if they were because then it would be like jogging a motor one way and then the other. I figured they’re rising edge input triggers. Ok still having some issues.My alarm seems to be in silent.It wont chirp when activated or when I hold the arm button.It shows siren going off but no sound.The Blue led is blinking and windos go up when armed.Sometimes it chirps and sometimes it doesnt.I dont believe that the siren may have gotten moister.I got the. I just haven’t tested if HOLDING down the phone app aux button keeps it active until released. But they are momentary so you still need a momentary to polarity switching relay that toggles polarity on the same momentary relay input press if you want it to be clean in the phone app (one button) or else you’re using two dedicated buttons on the smart phone and two relay sets with reversed polarity outputs in parallel as described because most customers of mine don’t use the RF kit when they can just use thier OEM FOB, most use the smart phone and app add on. Since this only operates when the key is in ACC mode, you wouldn’t have to worry that anyone can use this switch when the vehicle is off.Ĭlick to expand.Pretty much the same, via RF FOB kit add on, or smart phone interface module, are where the buttons can be pressed. The easiest way would be to tap the same wires at the dash from behind the OEM switch and run it back outside to the truck bed to a switch that has the same function as OEM that you can mount somewhere in your bed or anywhere you desire. I don’t sell compustar even though I have access to the line through my vendors. However, if the starter auxiliary wasn’t activated at programming andnwjen flashed or is assigned as a different function, you would have to know. It’s not hard, would just have to route the auxiliary output from the starter, through a pulse to held high timer latching-polarity reversing relay. But if you want this custom solution, I can always visit it for you during some downtime. You’d be surprised but crimping and splicing intimidates a lot more folk than we’d like to think. This is not only low demand, but may be complicated for some.
PROGRAM AUX BUTTON FOR REAR GLASS VIPER REMOTE INSTALL
Plus my focus is tailored on ease of install and plug n play. This is niche, not a very common need for most. The reason it’s not high on the list is because of demand. I can easily do the window slide but only for the vehicles equipped with power sliding rears.
Or use it as a safe/locker when storing expensive tools/laptops and other valuable goods overnight such as when traveling, or parked at a friends house on the street in an unknown area overnight. You’ll be able to leave your car keys in and go hiking, surfing, or when hitting the slopes. Also working on independent pop n lock tailgate control via phone app so those with tonneau covers can use thier truck bed as a safe that cannot be unlocked from the main cabin in the case of break in. The same app that most have on thier 3X Remote Starters from 12VS or me. Currently collaborating with to bring you phone app controlled bed lights.
And why battery keeps dying.Click to expand.Thanks Antoin. I feel like the alternator isn't charging the system that's why truck died when I remove negative cable. Then 5 minutes later battery dies while truck running in idle. After solenoid install I see battery was dead. Replaced solenoid as I saw some smoke from there previously and knew it was going out. 10 days later, start truck weird squealing noise, turn key off, but truck remains on and then finally shuts off after 10 seconds or so. Went to mechanic shop they checked alternator said it was fine, so I ran with it. I took negative cable off batt post and truck died. Got a different style from O'Reilly and that one seemed to work.
This was weird when I installed alternator id get power but when I'd mount it no power. Vehicle battery died, tried charging it and died again. Auto part shops say new alt bipasses excitor wire. 87 f250, 5.0 302 Alt went out was the old design with excitor wire.
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